When designing a pig shed with or without separate machines, make sure that the animals live comfortably, and you do not cause unnecessary difficulties in taking care of the farm. Waterers and feeders for wet or dry feed should be made so that they provide pigs with free access to feed and water, but prevent them from becoming clogged with animal products, and so that the containers can be easily cleaned at any time.


Waterers and feeders for wet or dry feed should be made so that they provide free access for pigs

You can build a pig shed out of wood, brick, Adobe, or cinder blocks. The main thing is not to use concrete and reinforced concrete, as they differ in poor thermal conductivity. For the roof, roofing material or slate will be suitable, and the ceiling itself will need to be insulated. The floor is also desirable to do insulated (you can lay unpaved boards, covering them with straw) and it is necessary to provide a slight slope of the floor surface to the trench dug at the wall to drain pig excrement.

Sufficient height for a pigsty is about two meters. The area also depends on how many pigs you intend to keep.

In order to maintain cleanliness in one half of the pigsty, it is recommended to arrange a feeding area with feeders and waterers, and the other half is slightly raised above the floor level and adapted for resting animals.
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For pregnant females, sows, and boar producers, it is advisable to make separate machines equipped with individual drinkers and feeders. For one pig, you will need a machine with an area of three to four square meters, and for sows with piglets-at least five square meters.

In summer, it will be enough to keep open the windows and doors leading to the paddock in order to ventilate the pigsty, but in winter it is necessary to take care of the manufacture of the simplest ventilation from a metal pipe that is taken out through the window opening from the stable to the street. In addition, in winter, you will need to provide heating for the pigsty, since the comfortable temperature for pigs should be at least 13 degrees, and for newborn piglets-from 18 degrees.


For pregnant females, sows and boar producers, it is advisable to make separate machines equipped with individual drinkers and feeders


Often pig farmers at home use ordinary metal or wooden troughs as feeders. But neither of these feeders are short-lived: wooden ones fail in a year, and troughs made of galvanized steel sheets collapse from corrosion after a couple of years. So farmers have to be resourceful, coming up with different versions of feeders with a longer service life:

  • as a trough, you can adopt an asbestos-cement pipe cut along the length by attaching wooden semicircles-plugs to the end, and closing the upper edges of the pipe with galvanized iron for greater strength;
  • a feeder made of an ordinary gas cylinder can last for more than twenty years, but first, you need to drain the condensate from it by turning the cylinder upside down and unscrewing the tap with a key. You can cut the balloon with a grinder into two equal halves, or make one part of a larger volume for pigs, and the second-a smaller volume for piglets;
  • for dry feed, it is more convenient to use hopper feeders made of aluminum sheets with sloping walls, which provide a gradual flow of fresh feed (you can easily find drawings on the Internet).



For dry feed it is more convenient to use hopper feeders made of aluminum sheets with sloping walls

Feed-in makeshift feeders will stay clean longer if you weld lintels or steel bars across long metal troughs so that animals can easily reach the feed, but can not get into the trough with their legs.

When self-manufacturing feeders for pigs, they are usually made with a width of about 30-40 cm, a depth of up to 25 cm, and the length is chosen at their discretion. It is more convenient when the front and back walls of the feeders are located at an angle to the floor, which makes the upper part of the feeder wider than the lower. The back wall is better made at a sharper angle than the front, then the pigs will throw out less food by “digging” movements of the head.


Basins and cups used on private farms as drinkers are increasingly being replaced by a convenient nipple or teat drinkers. Cup drinkers, although they allow you to save water, but they very quickly accumulate dirt and food residues, which makes it necessary to constantly monitor the cleanliness of the container and often change the water.

Nipple drinking systems have a rather complex automatic design, which includes a water treatment unit, a pressure regulator, water supply pipes, and a mechanical filter. It is not easy to make such a design yourself, it is easier to buy a teat or nipple drinker. Only when buying, try to choose the right size of the nipple according to the age of the pigs, and fix the drinking bowl at the optimal height at an angle – so the animals will be more comfortable to drink, and water will be less spilled. As you can see, tricks exist not only in the manufacture of feeders for pigs with their own hands but also in the creation of drinking bowls.

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